The fashion for a natural appearance entailed a sharp decline in the popularity of artificial hair, false eyelashes, unnaturally long acrylic nails. Least of all this trend affected the procedure of nail extension with gel on forms: a natural result with the help of step-by-step instructions and the availability of necessary tools is obtained even for beginners of manicure.
- Features of nail extension on forms
- Types of gel for building
- Necessary materials and tools
- Nail preparation
- The technique of building in stages
- Work with lower forms
- Work with upper forms
- What shape can I give with a fingernail
- Gel Nail Care
- How is the correction of gel nails
- Professional Tips
- Video: gel nail extension on forms. Step-by-step instruction
Features of nail extension on forms
Modeling the nail plate with gel nail extension is performed in two ways:
- using tips;
- using forms.
Tips are thin plates that stick to the tips of your own nails. In this case, the width of the contact zone must be minimized. A gel is applied to the surface elongated in this way, creating a new nail shape. This easy way to build is suitable only for girls with a standard nail arch.
In addition, nails with tips are brittle, short-lived and grow quickly lose their attractiveness.
When building on forms, a template made of thick cardboard or plastic, on which the gel is laid, is taken as the basis. After polymerization, the template is removed, and the resulting gel tip is given the desired look and shape.
Compared to tips, this method has a lot of advantages:
- does not require the use of glue, drying nails;
- suitable for girls with non-standard forms of nails;
- there are no restrictions on the length and the created form;
- the result looks natural due to the absence of an extra layer of plastic inside;
- in the process of regrowth, the nails look aesthetically pleasing.
Types of gel for building
The gels used for building are distinguished by brands and components in the composition, as well as other important characteristics:
- according to the method of polymerization: sensitive to UV rays and not photosensitive;
- according to the technology of application: single, two and 3 phase;
- by color: transparent, colored, camouflage;
- by appointment: chewing gum, gel jelly, stained glass.
Usually, the choice of gel according to the application technology causes difficulties.
The build-up process consists of 3 major steps:
Accordingly, a single-phase gel – the most versatile – is used at each of the 3 stages. Using a two-phase gel, you can only perform modeling and fixing, and for the base layer you will have to buy additional coating. Three-phase gel consists of 3 packages with different means for each stage of building.
Single-phase products are more liquid, they are easy to work with, they are most often chosen for nail strengthening or slight lengthening. However, the highest quality result: durability, minimal risk of detachment, hardness is achieved only with the help of 3-phase technology. She is the most complex and requiring a high level of skill.
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Necessary materials and tools
The extension on the molds takes place in 3 enlarged stages: preparing your own nail plate, working with the gel, and design.
Tools for the initial stage can be found in the arsenal of any girl who is used to doing manicure on her own:
- disinfector for hands and tools;
- file for natural nails (grit 240 grit);
- pusher, nippers, scissors, orange stick;
- brush against dust.
Materials and tools for working with the gel must be purchased in a professional store:
- buff coated 120 grit;
- degreaser for nails;
- paper towels;
- cardboard or plastic forms;
- gel brushes (artificial pile);
- primer (bond, ultrabond), base (if two-phase gel is used);
- gel for modeling;
- UV lamp with a power of 36 watts (preferably with a timer);
- sticky fluid (or alcohol) and lint-free wipes;
- file for artificial nails (100 and 180 grit);
- top gel (topcoat).
These materials are enough to create classic transparent gel nails with a varnish coating.
For design, French manicure, color coating, you will additionally need:
- camouflage gel;
- colored gels (especially white);
- acrylic paints;
- brushes for painting on nails;
- mica, foil, pigments, broths and other design elements.
On the day of building it is advisable not to use hand creams, not to make baths and masks, not to go to swimming pools and saunas. When undergoing antibiotic treatment, hormonal changes, fungal lesions, cuticle damage, the build-up should be postponed until complete recovery.
At the initial stage, manicure and preparation of the nail plate for laying out the gel are performed:
- Wash and dry hands thoroughly, treat with antiseptic gel.
- Process the cuticle in the usual way, push it with a stick or pusher. Cut manicure is recommended to be done no earlier than 3-4 days before the extension procedure.
- Cut off the entire free length of the nails and file them, giving them a pre-selected shape.
- Remove the glossy layer with a buff: with light movements that do not damage the nail plates, cut off the top layer of the nail, making it rough. To clean nails of dust with a small brush.
- Remove grease and moisture from nails using a degreaser.
- Prime the nails with a primer (bond), trying not to get the composition on the skin of the fingers. After applying the primer, the nails should not be touched, as this will negate all the preparation work.
The technique of building in stages
Gel nail extension on the forms, the step-by-step instruction for which is presented below, can occur using two technologies. They vary depending on which forms are used – upper or lower. The lower forms are fixed under the nail plate, lengthening it; the gel is laid out on top. In the upper forms, gel is first applied, and then the workpiece is pressed to the nail.
Work with lower forms
Step-by-step instructions for gel n
ail extension on the lower forms:
- Prepare for building up.
- Squeeze the template to an oval, and insert a finger into the resulting hole. In this case, the inner edge of the form should go slightly under the nail, being its continuation and coinciding with the line of a smile. The disposable forms of foil and paper are given the necessary parameters, cutting off the excess with nail scissors.
- On the entire surface of the nail plate with the shape of a flat synthetic brush (for example, No. 6) put the gel, starting from the base. When working with liquid types of gel (most often single-phase), turn your finger down with your fingernail to evenly distribute the product. Dry in a UV lamp for 2-3 minutes according to the recommendations of the gel manufacturer.
- To form a natural curve of the nail plate, repeat step 2 again. This stage is all the more important the longer the extended nail.
- Remove the sticky layer with a degreaser or alcohol and lint-free napkins, gently pry off the mold and separate it from the finished nail. If the mold does not remove well, then it is necessary to increase the exposure time in the lamp.
- Using a file for artificial nails, give the desired shape, adjust the length. Align the entire surface with a buff, filing and polishing it. Remove dust with a brush.
- Apply a top coat, dry, degrease.
Work with upper forms
Step-by-step instructions for gel nail extension using the upper forms:
- Choose the top forms for each nail. Put a couple of balls of gel in an inverted form and evenly distribute them with a synthetic brush. Dry in the lamp for 10-20 seconds.
- Repeat step 1, but a second time to dry longer for a few seconds.
- Apply gel at the base of a natural nail and, without polymerizing it, apply the upper form to the nail. Press the mold by squeezing and removing excess gel. Dry the time recommended by the gel manufacturer (usually 2-3 minutes).
- Remove the upper forms, remove the sticky layer from the inside of the resulting nails
- Saw off nails, shaping, apply top, dry, degrease.
What shape can I give with a fingernail
The shape of the nail is selected based on the size of the hands and the length of the fingers, as well as the preferred style in clothing and lifestyle:
- square and oval-square (“soft square”) are suitable for long fingers, graceful hands, appropriate in a modern and office style;
- oval and round – to large hands with short full fingers, complement the calm classic and business style;
- almond-shaped – to fragile hands with narrow fingers, as part of a romantic feminine or glamorous style;
- sharp (stylet, cat’s nails, peaks) – to long fingers with a strong nail plate and extended nails, emphasize courage, a love of risk and sexuality;
- “Ballerina” (sharp nails with a cut tip) – any form of hands and fingers, will adorn young lovers of new products and fashion trends;
- beveled, beveled-twisted, fantasy – more often represented at contests of building masters, in ordinary life they are chosen by creative people who love to challenge society.
Gel Nail Care
The nails built up with gel on the forms are quite strong and durable, unlike tips. With proper care, they maintain a neat appearance for up to a month, do not chip, do not exfoliate and lengthen with the growth of their own nail plate.
The extended nails must be protected in everyday life:
- from exposure to detergents,
- long work in the water,
- careless handling of kitchen utensils,
- from open fire.
It should be careful with fastening tight clothes, closing doors and when playing sports. For home care, it is better to use non-metallic tools, do not cut off the free length, but cut it off. Use professional gentle varnishes and acetone-free removers.
Correction in a timely manner, not only for aesthetic purposes, but also for the preservation of your nails: the longer the nail, the more the stress zone shifts, in which damage to the plate most often occurs.
How is the correction of gel nails
On average, after 3-4 weeks, natural nails grow back, and a noticeable boundary between the gel and its own plate appears in the zone of the hole. Many people remove this difference in heights by buff at home, but manicure professionals do not recommend this technique: there is a risk of thinning your own nail and getting a gel detachment.
It is wiser to make a full correction every time when the distance from the cuticle to the beginning of the gel is 4/32 inch or more. Indications are damage to the nails from bumps, cracks, chips. The correction procedure consists of the same steps as the extension itself, but is much more time-consuming. Therefore, professionals in salons often do not undertake to adjust the work of other masters.
After disinfecting the hands and tools, the nails are prepared, the glossy layer is removed and the excess thickness is washed with a buff. After applying the base layer, gel modeling of nails is carried out. Forms in this case are previously extended nails, and the process itself resembles building on tips.
The polymerized material is filed, given its shape and length. The final stage is applied to the topcoat and the care cream for the cuticle.
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- Use materials purchased in professional stores.
- Carefully work with a natural nail without scratching or thinning it.
- Exactly adhere to building technology for specific materials
- To study the recommendations of the manufacturer of cosmetics on the thickness of application, the polymerization time and the features of the socks
- Remember that a too thick gel layer threatens with detachment of the artificial nail and damage to the natural.
- Do not bite, cut or pry off artificial nails with sharp objects.
- Rest the nail plate once every 3-4 months.
It is possible to build nails with gel on the molds using step-by-step instructions at home, however, if you doubt the quality of the materials used or the accuracy of the technology used, it is better to visit a professional and “peek” the secrets of his work. It is more reasonable to do primary building in the cabin, and to cope with regular correction independently.
Video: gel nail extension on forms. Step-by-step instruction
Learn how to build nails on shapes in the video clip:
Step-by-step instructions on how to build up gel nails with varnish: