Before you build your nails using gel, acrylic or silk, it is important to familiarize yourself with the technique of extension and purchase tools and materials. At home, maximum care and sterility should be exercised so as not to spoil the nail plate and get a beautiful manicure as a result.
Rules for nail extensions
So that after any type of building there are no problems with your nails, you should follow some simple rules:
- Before the procedure, you should not use skin care products (creams, gels, masks) during the day, otherwise in the future air bubbles may form between the extended coating and the nail, the fixation of the material will be weak;
- Before starting the procedure, the cuticle should be removed;
- Experts do not recommend building nails a day before and during the menstrual cycle. An organism in this state can reject foreign material;
- Do not build up nails for girls in the first trimester of pregnancy, this will burden the manicure procedure;
- The procedure should be abandoned for girls suffering from nail fungus taking antibiotics. The fungus must first be cured. Extension is carried out only on healthy plates of nails.
Tools and materials
To grow nails at home
will help with a
standard set of tools and materials:
- Ultraviolet lamp. This appliance is used to dry the gel coating. Price – from 9 to 75 $. Several popular companies with high sales ratings: TNL Professional, Planet Nails, Runail 36 W 818, Irisk Professional;
- Disinfector. Necessary for disinfection of accessories before and after work. Price from 0.30 to 26 $ for 1 pc. (depending on volume and firm);
- Nail file for native nails. The grain size of the product should be from 240 Grit;
- Nail file for extended nails. The grain size of the product should range from 80 to 240 Grit;
- Brushes for coating nails with material ;
- Pusher . With its help, the cuticle is removed;
- Nippers . They will serve to conveniently remove dead skin pieces (burrs);
- Buff . With the help of this nail file, the surface of the nail is gently polished;
- Brushes for decorating nails . They differ from other brushes in a thin pile, for ease of drawing;
- Forms, tips . Are templates for building;
- Orange stick A handy tool for the master. With its help, defects are removed, corrected and corrected (not to be confused with the correction procedure);
- Soft brush. Needed to remove excess dust;
- Degreaser for nails. Means for improving the fixation of the coating;
- Primer . Substance for setting artificial coating, in other words, a liquid with the effect of “double-sided tape”;
- Neil Rev It is the foundation for the coating;
- Napkins without lint ;
- Base . A substance that connects a natural nail with a gel coating;
- Liquid to remove the stickiness of the coating ;
- Gel ;
- Paints, gloss and other components for design ;
- Finish gel . It is the final coating layer for fixing the work;
- Cuticle care oil.
Additionally for silk extensions:
- Tape made of silk for nails or shreds to fit the size of the nail. An alternative to silk can be other fibers (flax, fiberberg – fiberglass);
- Special glue.
Additionally for acrylic extensions:
- Acrylic powder;
- Liquid (monomer);
- Special brush for acrylic;
- Cleansing liquid for the brush;
- Glue for tips.
To increase nails both in the salon and at home should be after examination and confidence in the absence of contraindications. They are divided into 2 categories:
- Fixation of the accumulated material will be minimal or equal to 0. Nails will not hold, since the body can tear off the material and there is a possibility of exfoliation;
- Nail extensions can be harmful. In this case, it is better to abandon the procedure, otherwise there is a likelihood of serious consequences.
Low material fixation may occur if the client:
- diseases of the cardiovascular system;
- poor blood circulation;
- menstrual cycle time;
- bazedova disease;
- hormonal disorders;
- period of chemotherapy;
- time for taking antibiotics;
- increased sweating of the hands;
- sudden stressful situations arise;
It is necessary to abandon the build-up in order to avoid harm to health, with:
- damage to the nail plate (injury);
- hematoma under the nail;
- allergies to materials.
In this case, do not be afraid if the nails are already built up, and a girl is overtaken by any ailment or circumstance from a number of contraindications. In this case, it will be necessary to visit the correction more often.
To build nails at home, you need to start with preparation.
is the phased preparation:
- Cleaning and disinfection. The client’s hands should be thoroughly washed with soap and sanitized.
- Cuticle processing. Cutting it is not recommended, so as not to cause microtrauma (wound, cut) of the periungual skin area. First you need to apply an emollient to the cuticle (moisturizer or drug with an ANA complex), and then slightly move it from the nail plate closer to the skin.
- Giving nails a shape. It is necessary to make the desired shape from the free edge of the nail plate. Nails are not processed with a nail file only if they are very short cut.
- Preparation of the surface of the nail. Using a rough nail file, remove only 3-4 top layers, otherwise, if you overdo it, then the material will not hold or the fixation will be short-lived. The cutting process should take place in the direction from the cuticle to the edge of the nail.
- The last stage of preparation is to apply adhesive . You need to work with this tool carefully, its contact with the skin (some brands) can lead to a burning sensation. The nail must be kept upright. You need to start applying from the cuticle to the edge of the nail.
Proper compliance with these simple rules is a guarantee of quality work.
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Step-by-step instructions and building techniques
Each method is significantly different.
General technology is:
- Application of material;
Gel extension has its own advantages over other types:
- The nails look natural;
- It is possible to choose any design;
- The percentage of harm to natural nails is minimal, because under the gel the nails can “breathe”;
- From the gel to simulate any shape of the nail is not difficult.
There are also disadvantages of gel building:
- A crack in the nail requires a new extension of the nail, and not correction.
Step-by-step instruction for building:
- Handle and sanitize hands. They should be thoroughly washed with soap and then treated with an antiseptic.
- Prepare a nail. To do this, you need to carefully remove the cuticle from the surface of the nails and remove the upper fat layer of the nail with a nail file for better adhesion of the material. Degrease natural nails.
- Apply a starting coating (“base”), 2 min. dry your nails under the lamp.
- Remove the top layer with a soft file after drying.
- Fasten the pattern on the nails. It is important to ensure that the template is fixed evenly, parallel to natural nails.
- Using a brush, apply gel from the tip of the nail to its base. It is advisable to turn the finger over to evenly distribute the gel.
- For 3 minutes place your fingernail under the lamp.
- After drying, apply another layer of gel to form an S-bend.
- Dry again, and then remove the sticky layer.
- Remove the template and carefully polish the nails with a buff.
- Clean the nails with excess dust using a brush.
- If desired, you can issue a manicure with a pattern, patterns, sparkles or rhinestones.
- Apply a top coat and dry the nails under the lamp for 2 minutes.
- Degrease and apply oil to the cuticle.
A wonderful manicure will adorn your hands for 3-4 weeks.
Extend nails with silk in tandem with an activator gel. Sometimes silk can replace:
- Fiberglass (fiberglass) . When exposed to UV rays, it tends to glow in the dark;
- Flax . This fabric is wider than silk, it is recommended to use it in an unusual design of manicure (fabric surface).
This extension method can be a replacement for acrylic and gel. With some contraindications to the procedure (nail injuries, excessive sweating of the hands) – silk extensions is more sparing to natural nails. Their nails can breathe calmly, as matter passes air.
Step-by-step instruction for building:
- To process hands (washing with soap and disinfection).
- Prepare the nail (remove the cuticle, clean the nail with a nail file).
- Apply special glue to the nail, then apply the cloth.
- Using an orange stick, gently smooth the fabric along the plane of the nail, and cut off excess tissue with nail scissors.
- Apply gel activator (you can use shellac), then send the nail to dry under the lamp for 2-3 minutes.
- After drying, you need to shape with a fingernail and sand it with a buff.
- Apply modeling gel and dry under the lamp.
- Degrease and apply a topcoat.
- Degrease again and apply oil to the cuticle area.
Silk should be combined with gel or shellac, so it will be more durable.
The advantage of this extension is that acrylic dries without a lamp, and quite quickly. It does not spread during application and is more durable than other building materials. But this build-up has disadvantages and many contraindications (allergies, sweating, nail injuries, etc.).
There are 2 methods for using acrylic in a manicure when it is applied to:
- tips (light);
- forms (complex).
The most convenient way to train novice masters. The complexity of building is minimal. The nails are attached to a special glue, after which material is applied over the tips.
The choice of shapes is diverse: from square with sharp corners to almond-shaped.
- Cleaning and disinfection of hands and nails.
- Remove the cuticle and pterygium with an orange stick.
- Choose the right tips and fix it with a special glue.
- Correct the empty space between the tip and the edge of the finger. Treat the nail with a nail file so that it becomes dull.
- Degrease the nail and apply primer.
- Immerse the brush in liquid, and then dip it into acrylic powder.
- Put a circle on the center of the nail plate and form a nail.
- After hardening the acrylic, saw off the nail with a nail file and treat it with a buff until gloss.
- Lubricate the cuticle with oil.
Forms are disposable (from paper or foil) and reusable (from metal or plastic). Such a template is fixed around the nail plate and is filled with modeling material. The advantage of this method is that it allows you to form any shape of nails.
- Clean and handle hands.
- Remove cuticle and glossy layer from the surface of a natural nail.
- Apply primer.
- Fix the shape along the contour of the nail, dip the brush into liquid and acrylic powder. Put the desired form of manicure.
- Remove the form, file off the nail and process with a buff until glossy.
- Treat the cuticle with oil.
Tip: the form is fixed completely under the nail, otherwise the nails will not last long.
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Frequent errors when building up
How to build nails at home
– avoid common mistakes, including:
- Poor disinfection. Before the procedure, the hands should be thoroughly washed and treated with an antiseptic. Tools must be sanitized in a special apparatus and stored under a UV lamp when not in use.
- Sawing the nail plate. Before building, 2-3 upper layers of a natural nail are removed, while the nail file should not be stiff (abrasive from 180 to 240 Grit). A file with fewer particles (from 80 to 150 Grit) is used when cutting artificial nails and removes up to 60 layers. An improperly selected nail file can seriously harm natural nails.
- Non-compliance with nail modeling geometry. If you do not follow the sequence of transverse lines and S-bend, there is a risk of accelerating the process of breaking the extended nail, as well as the injury of a natural nail plate.
- Incorrect removal of extended nails. The incomplete sawing off of the upper layers of the material and the use of special solvents will be correct, after which a strengthening gel polish is applied to natural nails. Incorrect will be a complete file cutter with a mill or high abrasive files, this can lead to injury to natural nails.
- Errors during correction. In order not to lead to the formation of fungus and the development of microorganisms under extended manicure, it is necessary to remove the upper layers and detachments in advance using a nail file. If this manipulation is not carefully treated, air forms under the plates of the built-up material – a favorable environment for the spread of bacteria. After sawing, you need to apply modeling material on the remaining base from the previous build-up.
Nail care after the procedure
You need to start caring for manicure from the 1st day of the procedure. According to experts, some simple rules should be followed for a satisfying work result.
Basic care requirements:
- It is necessary to abandon hot water (in the first 2 days), saunas, baths and a sharp change in temperature;
- Limit contact with detergents and cleaners. Wear gloves
- You should use special creams and lotions that do not moisturize the skin of the hands;
- You need to be careful about manicure (do not wave your hands, do not tap your nails on a hard surface, etc.).
Initially, getting used to such a manicure can be difficult.
To build your nails at home correctly, you must follow the advice of professionals.
A few recommendations on how to ensure quality build-up:
- It is necessary to carefully approach the choice of material and equipment, not to save on them;
- It is advisable to start with building up on tips, since this is one of the easy methods;
- A thorough disinfection of hands and tools should be carried out before work;
- Do not neglect the initial examination of the hands and nails to make sure that there are no contraindications to the build-up;
- Material must be in stock with a margin;
- If tips are used, they should be selected in advance of the desired shape.
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Thus, the opportunity to learn how to do manicure with nails of any shape is at home. The main thing is to familiarize yourself with all the requirements and conditions of the procedure.