Part of the image of a woman is well-groomed, beautiful nails. They reflect the taste, style and inner world of the fair sex. Beauty salons provide master services, but more and more girls use their ideas to build nails.
- What to choose and materials
- Gel or acrylic
- Shapes or Tips
- Varieties of tips
- By appointment
- In shape
- According to the materials of manufacture
- How to choose tips
- Necessary tools and materials
- Basic starter kit for building tips
- What is necessary for nail extension on the forms
- What is necessary for gel nail extension
- Preparing the nail plate for extension
- Step-by-step instruction: extension on tips
- Instruction: extension on top forms
- Instruction: extension on liquid tips
- Extension technology
- Video on the necessary materials for building
What to choose and materials
In the building procedure, different materials are used: gel and acrylic, shapes and tips. To select the appropriate option, it is important to know their advantages and disadvantages. Differences are present both in the properties and in the technology of building.
Gel or acrylic
The obvious advantages of acrylic include:
- The material is flexible and dense. Working with it, it is easy to create a 3-dimensional design and achieve original 3-dimensional figures.
- The density of the raw material allows you to effortlessly derive the intended form. He does not “swim” on the nail.
- The polymerization process does not require special equipment and will take no more than 5-7 minutes. Acrylic masters, thanks to this property, are able to cope with the flow of customers by spending a minimum of time.
- To remove acrylic from the nail, just place it in a special solution.
The disadvantages of acrylic are:
- Unpleasant, pungent odor. The sensation of “aroma” from acrylic scares away customers, creating the illusion of its harmfulness to health. Therefore, refusal to work with the material by masters is practiced. In fact, gel and acrylic belong to the same “chemical family” and are similar in composition.
- Fast polymerization simultaneously with pluses in the hands of a professional becomes a minus in the hands of a beginner. The inability to instantly shape the nail plate makes it impossible to further adjust it completely, or a novice with a nail file has to remove all the bumps. For the same reason, acrylic is difficult to use on its own at home.
- The material lacks a glossy effect. To give shine, the nail must be varnished or topcoated, which makes it harder.
The benefits of the gel:
- In the market for raw materials for nail extension gel is represented by a variety of brands. It is possible to select the desired consistency and density.
- Thanks to self-leveling, this material can be used by both professionals and beginners. It differs in even lining (without the presence of tubercles), unlike acrylic.
- Throughout the entire period of operation of the manicure, the gel retains its gloss and does not require grinding or additional coating to give shine.
- The lack of smell allows the use of raw materials in beauty salons, in manicure points of shopping centers, at home.
- Drying requires the use of a lamp. The gel does not dry in the air on its own, like acrylic. You can use the polymerization time to create a shape.
- Liquid consistency. The material spreads over the nail, does not hold the figure, does not maintain volume.
- The building process involves 3 phases and the use of special tools for drying. This is directly related to the loss of time. Each nail takes at least 3 minutes.
- The main negative quality of the gel is fragility. Because of this drawback, acrylic is preferred.
Everything for nail extension, and first of all raw materials, should be chosen, focusing on your own sensations (smell, the presence of an allergy to the material, the severity of the nail).
Shapes or Tips
Forms are made on a glue basis and are pieces of paper for arranging under the nail.
Tips have a plastic base and are attached to the edge of a biological nail. These are 2 types of substrates for gel or acrylic extensions.
Tips are preferred for the following reasons:
- Tips are a finished form. Working with such a foundation is less labor intensive.
- Suitable for fragile and prone to stratification nails, hold even on biological material, broken under the root.
The disadvantages of tips are:
- The finished nail, unlike the product on the form, looks flatter.
- Not all models can be implemented on the basis of tips, they limit the possibilities of manicure.
- Not everyone is able to create a beautiful nail on a tip basis. They do not give in to preload, especially helium. The result of the work is graceless, looks wide and massive.
- Tips extension technology is not suitable for wide nails and growing down. They will give wide form even wider width, and manicure on nails growing down with their use will create the Freddy Krueger effect.
Forms have the following advantages:
- Suitable for the formation of any type of nail.
- Using this base, you can tighten the nail, which gives it subtlety and grace.
- The result is durable, beautiful bottom arch, volume.
- Improve the appearance of very wide nails and down growing.
Unlike tips, forms are characterized by the following disadvantages:
- Working with material requires experience. Improper use gives your fingernail an unaesthetic look.
- Problematic in work on fingers with hard and large pads.
- Unacceptable for use on injured nails.
- Working on gel forms requires more time than on tips.
Varieties of tips
All nail tips are similar in appearance and shape to a natural nail. They are used to form a specific length of manicure. When choosing a material, the structure and shape of the nail is taken into account. Ideally lie tips, completely repeating the structure of the plate. A clear match will not cause the artificial nail to warp.
By appointment, tips are:
- strongly curved;
The first type is designed to work on the nail bed, which has a strong bend. Universal suitable for creating manicure on problem nails.
The shape distinguishes varieties of tips:
- Classic. Pack of 50 costs $ 3,4. Suitable for any type of nail plate due to its smooth bending. Widely used by manicure professionals.
- Direct (contactless) . They provide for the absence of a contact zone, therefore they are used to create a French design. 100 copies are within $ 2,04.
- Skinny. Used in the design of the stylet, cat’s nails. 50 pcs. will cost $ 2,04.
- Almond-shaped. They are made both in a non-contact version and with a contact area. They are in the form of almonds. Pack of 50 It costs from $ 1,77.
Tips have a different length, which is indicated on the package. Manicure masters apply tips of maximum length. The desired size is adjusted with special nippers.
According to the materials of manufacture
For the manufacture of tips use:
- ABS – plastic . The material is used for the manufacture of a classic type of tips. Provides the finished product with high-quality grip and elasticity.
- Nylon. Resistant to mechanical damage and elastic. Nylon tips have a negative point – poor attachment to the nail.
- Propiflex . It is elastic and stable, it is in good contact with the nail, tenaciously fixed on the surface of the plate.
How to choose tips
Tips are easier to use and recommended for beginners.
When purchasing material, the following criteria are taken into account:
- A thin substrate (tipsa) will give your fingernail sophistication and naturalness.
- Quality tipsa soft to the touch, but not fragile. If white bands appear when squeezing the tips with your fingers (so that it arches), then it is not strong enough and it is possible that it will quickly become worthless.
- It is important to choose a safe material. When buying, it is impossible to do this without special equipment, so it is better to choose manufacturers that have proven themselves on the positive side.
- Female nails have a different shape, buying a substrate you should choose one that follows the shape of the nail.
- Outwardly, all the substrates are different: transparent, colored and with a white tip. If the design of the nail is not defined, it is better to buy a transparent material, it is universal. With a white tip, tips are used in French manicure.
On sale are common substrates of small size. This material is practiced by specialists in manicure for nail design, it is not recommended for beginners to use it.
Necessary tools and materials
Everything for nail extension is available for sale, you can do without visiting a nail salon and build your own nails.
Basic starter kit for building tips
For work you will need:
- Glue. The material is different in consistency. Liquid dries faster, seizes. All brands of glue contain an antimicrobial component.
- Tipsorez . The length of the substrates is adjusted with this tool. When removing excess length with conventional scissors, the risk of damage to the tips is likely.
- A mill is a power tool that corrects an extended nail. It can be used to remove cuticles, to remove gel or varnish. The device is equipped with several nozzles. Soft parts are used to work with cuticles, hard parts for sawing off a nail.
- Lamp (LED or UV). The device is used for polymerization. The cost of LED lamps is more expensive; this technology is newer than UV lamps.
- Napkins (lint free). Unlike cotton pads, lint-free wipes do not leave small fibers after application.
- Buff and nail files. The buff has the shape of a parallelepiped, each side of which is covered with a file with a small coefficient of abrasiveness (stiffness).
- Brush . A tool with natural hair will last longer.
- At choice : acryle, gel, acrylate or biogel.
- Primer or degreaser . The tool is designed to clean the nail, degreasing and drying, prevents the appearance of yellowness and delamination.
- Top Means for fixing color and gloss.
- Lacquer polish and decoration.
Each stage of work requires the presence of a nail file with a certain abrasiveness (stiffness), which is measured in grit. More rigid files have little abrasiveness.
Tool abrasive table:
|80||Work with the length and shape of an artificial nail|
|150||Work with the finished artificial nail|
|240||The formation of the length and shape of the biological nail|
|400||Gloss removal from natural nail polishing|
What is necessary for nail extension on the forms
- Dust brush.
- Files for adjusting the shape.
- Cuticle shovel.
- Grinding tool.
You can purchase disposable or reusable forms. Disposable are made of paper and are cheaper.
Reusable molds are more expensive at the price, made of Teflon on a wire frame.
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What is necessary for gel nail extension
Tools needed for building are discussed above. The list of materials necessary for fixing manicure and its uniform distribution includes the following tools.
Gel. The material from which the artificial nail is formed. Stiffening, it forms a durable coating. The economy option is represented by a single-phase
substance. Suitable for home use. The composition of the two-phase includes means that protect the nail from fungus and foliation. Three-phase, in addition to the functions inherent in the previous raw materials, is used as a base, fixer and model.
- Primer. Translation of a word from English – primer. As in the case of nail extensions, when working with gel, it is necessary to prepare the base and protect the nail plate from the effects of gel components. There are 2 options: acidic, acid-free. The first variety includes methacrylic acid. The substance opens the scales of the nail. The rough surface provides reliable adhesion of the nail to the applied materials. Acid-free gently acts on the nail plate, helps to improve and consolidate the base.
- Degreaser. In everyday life, you can use ordinary alcohol.
- Oil will help get rid of dry cuticles after the procedure. You can buy: sesame seeds, grape seed, sea buckthorn or castor.
- Paints (acrylic) . To create patterns on the nails, this type of dye is used.
- Jewelry (pebbles, sparkles, rhinestones).
Everything for nail extension (tools and materials) can be purchased as a kit. Buying a kit is 25% cheaper than buying it all individually.
Preparing the nail plate for extension
Before building, it is recommended to adhere to the following general rules:
- 4 days before the procedure, do not do trimmed classic and European manicures. These cosmetic services do not exclude cuticle damage, which makes further laying of the material difficult.
- The overgrown part of the nail should be up to 4/32 inch long. This size allows you to determine its shape, select the appropriate lining and ensure reliable fixation of the material.
- 12 hours before the build-up exclude the application of the cream on the hands, and 3 hours before the procedure refrain from contact with water.
The sequence of nail preparation includes 5 stages:
- Sanitary treatment . The hands are treated with a disinfectant (alcohol, chlorhexidine).
- Cuticle processing. The procedure involves softening it and gently pressing it to the nail base.
Create a form . The overgrown edge of the nail is filed, giving the desired bend.
- Gloss removal . The procedure is carried out with a nail file with an abrasiveness of 240 or less. The thin fat layer is removed. An excessively sharpened nail cannot withstand lengthening, it can bend and break. The film is removed by moving the nail file from the cuticle to the edge of the nail. The removed coating will recover after 40 minutes. You should calculate the execution time of the main lengthening procedure and perform the 4th stage of preparation immediately before it. The sawn layer is removed from the nail and fingers with a brush.
- Primer application . The action is designed for 30 minutes. The laying out of subsequent layers of an artificial nail begins immediately after degreasing. Lost time leads to the restoration of the biological nail plate, from which the future nail can quickly peel off.
Step-by-step instruction: extension on tips
After preparing the nail plate for extension, in the case of performing the procedure using tips, the following steps are.
- Selection of tips . The width of the product should match the width of the nail plate in the center. Ideally, tips fall completely on the nail from corner to corner.
- Sticking . On the concave part with a brush, glue is applied all over the area of the entire hole. Observing an angle of 45 degrees, gluing starts from the edge of the nail plate. 10 sec the tips are held pressed. If excess glue is released, wipe it off with a lint-free cloth.
Trimming length . Tipsorezu adjust the length. It must be borne in mind that the subsequent steps of the manicure include turning the nail with a nail file, which also reduces the length of the nail. When working with a tip cutter, it is better to cut off with a margin.
- Formation . A file is applied to a shape that does not exceed 100 grit abrasiveness. At the same time, the joint is sawn off, the transition is leveled. The biological nail is not affected at this stage. By touch, the surface of the workpiece should be smooth and stepless.
- The dust remaining on the nail is removed with a brush . A thin layer of degreaser is applied to the nail plate.
Tips are glued. Further actions depend on the material chosen for building: gel or acrylic.
Instruction: extension on top forms
The algorithm for building on the upper forms:
- According to the scheme described above, the usual preparation of the nail is carried out.
- Choose shapes similar in size to a biological nail. For each nail, the most appropriate workpiece is selected. Grind a little difference with a nail file. Finished forms are laid out in order, so as not to confuse or repeat the selection process.
- The nail is covered with a base gel.
- The smile area and the edge of the form (free) are filled with gel.
- The form is polymerized for 20 seconds. in the lamp.
- The area of the form that will be in contact with the nail is filled with gel, smoothed and pressed with a tight pressure.
- 30 sec polymerized.
- Protruding excess gel at the edges is removed.
- For 3 minutes fingers placed in a lamp.
- The form is removed.
- A nail file not more than 100 grit filed a nail.
- Cover the nail with a top coat.
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Instruction: extension on liquid tips
- Apply liquid nail tips to the surface of a nail prepared for nail extension. The material is pre-selected according to the width of the nail, and the base layer is distributed along its inner part.
- The brush removes excess material that has appeared on the surface.
- If gel is used in the work, the next step is drying in the lamp. When using acrylic, drying is carried out in air.
- After polymerization, the liquid types are removed, and the second layer is spread with a brush, while giving the nail a shape.
- The result obtained is again dried in a lamp (if using a gel) or dried in air (if using acrylic) for 2 minutes.
- The artificial nail is ready. It is covered with a finish or top and proceed to design.
Everything for nail extension is ready. Purchased materials and tools. The nail plate has undergone the usual preparation and tips or shapes have been established. Having made a choice between gel or acrylic, you can proceed to the final stage.
The gel extension procedure includes:
- Brush application of base material. The gel should not be allowed to come into contact with the skin and leak into the side rollers. Such consequences can be prevented by leaving 1/32 inch from the gel to the skin. At the same time, at this stage, it is necessary to shape the architecture of the future nail. The finished base is dried for 3-5 minutes. in the lamp.
- The next layer is applied modeling gel. The nail turns out to be solid and reliable, if the procedure is repeated 2 times. Each layer should be tried to be made thin and held for 2 minutes. drying in the lamp. Between layers, decorative elements are inserted and painted.
- The application of the finishing gel and 2 minute drying in the lamp completes the building process. Then remove the sticky layer, hone the form and get rid of surface irregularities.
They begin to perform any type of manicure with the disinfection of the hands of the master and client, preparing the plate, selecting tips or forms.
After installing the base (tips, molds) when building with acrylic, the following manipulations are performed:
- The surface of the nail is treated with a primer, which contributes to the adhesion of the future artificial nail to the biological.
- The brush is wetted in liquid, and then in acrylic powder. An acrylic ball (material for the future nail) is formed on the tip of the tool.
- The ball is placed in the middle of the plate, and the nails are formed with light movements of the brush.
- The result is filed, giving the desired shape. Start the process from the sides, after adjusting the tip and top.
- Buff the surface with a buff to a shine and cut small scratches.
Acrylic used for nail extension, in just 40-50 seconds. freezes in the air. The material does not require drying in the lamp.
Video on the necessary materials for building
The most necessary materials for nail extension at home: