The architecture of eyebrows or “brow art” is a step-by-step process of modeling, creating a form, correcting and coloring hair in the eyebrows on the face. Step-by-step training will help you learn about the methods of conducting, preparing tools and materials, the features of selecting the ideal person for a particular type, as well as performing a salon procedure at home.
- What is eyebrow architecture
- What is the difference between eyebrow architecture and correction
- What materials are needed
- Eyebrow shape matching face type
- Bend point selection
- Definition of width and length
- Eyebrow tinting
- Eyebrow makeup
- Henna bioatouage
- Architecture paint
- A thread
- Sugar paste
- Lamination
- Eyebrow Architecture Video
What is eyebrow architecture
The architecture of eyebrows (step-by-step training is available for beginners) is initially a salon procedure that allows you to emphasize or adjust the shape, change or brighten the color, and model the optimal shape for this type of face.
A session consists of several stages:
- The choice of form by type of face.
- Removal of excess hairs (by thread, tweezers, waxing or shugaring).
- Color selection and staining (henna, paint).
- Conducting color grading procedures with a long-lasting effect (tattoo, microblending).
- Daily care activities, makeup.
Phased corrections with subsequent staining will transform the inexpressive nature. The procedure is carried out purely taking into account individual characteristics, color type, proportions.
What is the difference between eyebrow architecture and correction
Two similar procedures for the prince and cosmetic tasks have some differences. Brow art is a more complex and multi-stage procedure, while correction is only an integral part of it.
When performing the architecture, detailed planning is initially carried out, new outlines are created, the shape is transformed, the markup is made, the calculation of bending points, length and width, the choice of color and painting technique. Only after this, correction is performed with the removal of excess hairs.
There are several correction methods – wax removal, tweezers or threading, shugaring and cutting of hairs.
What materials are needed
To perform the procedure efficiently, having obtained an effective result, it is necessary to prepare materials:
- Color correction. For a lasting effect, henna, paints, colored waxes, shadows and powders are used.
- Styling. For a neat hair styling, you will need a round brush with hard bristles or a mini comb, as well as a transparent wax for fixing.
- Correction of the form. To give the desired shape and remove excess hair, you need tweezers. The device can be made of durable plastic or steel. Tweezers come with beveled, straight, or pointed edges. You can also use the removal method with a thread, trimmer or epilator with a nozzle for facial areas.
- A haircut. To do a light haircut at the base, scissors with straight and sharpened edges will be required.
- Form creation and layout. To correctly determine the bend point and eyebrow length, you need a soft flexible ruler with inch divisions.
- The choice of the optimal shape. To simplify the process of architecture, you can use stencils – special patterns for eyebrows.
The mandatory set of the brow-master should include disinfectants, cotton pads and sticks, paint brushes, and a pencil for marking.
Eyebrow shape matching face type
The architecture of eyebrows (step-by-step training includes the principles of determining the shape) is a phased procedure. The basis is the selection of form, taking into account the type and characteristics of the face.
Rules:
- For the oval type: this form is the most proportional, the cheekbones are gently outlined, the lines of the jaw and forehead are almost equal. This type is universal, any shape is suitable for it, but it is preferable that the eyebrows of medium width are rounded in shape with a low arc. It is recommended to avoid a sharp break, which will make the face disproportionately elongated.
- For the round type: the main goal is to visually lengthen the face. Lines with a clearly defined kink from the middle will cope with the task. Too round shape is not recommended, emphasizing in this case the disproportionate shape.
- For the square type: the task is to soften the pronounced geometry, graphic face. The ideal shape for this type is a moderately wide line with a sharp angle and a high arch.
- For the triangular type (heart shape): a distinctive feature is a pointed chin and sharp lines of the cheekbones. Smooth rounded lines help soften angularity. The height of the arch is selected in proportion to the lines of the face – the longer it is, the higher the arch.
- For the rhomboid type: the shape resembles an outwardly correct oval, but with a more pronounced geometry of the lines. The optimal shape is a classic arc or lines with a slight break.
- For the pear-shaped type: a straight shape with a slightly rounded end is suitable. To balance the proportions of the A-type, you can increase the eyebrow distance.
In addition to determining the type of face, it is necessary to take into account its proportionality, the shape and thickness of the lips, the height of the cheekbones, and the shape of the nose.
Bend point selection
Architectural planning requires accurate calculation of length, width, as well as determination of the bending point.
For optimal selection, there are several methods:
- French The selection scheme is used for a triangular, square or round type of face. The essence of the technique is to select a bend point above the level of the outer edge of the iris.
-
Hollywood The technique is similar to French. The point is selected above the level of the outer edge of the iris, but with an offset towards the temple. To determine it was easier, it is necessary to draw a visually straight line from the chin to the temple through the iris. This selection technique is suitable for oval and diamond-shaped faces.
- American. Suitable for a wide round or square face. The highest peak of a break is located strictly above the pupil.
Definition of width and length
To build the length of a perfect eyebrow, you will need a pen or pencil, a ruler:
- First you need to define the boundaries. To determine the inner border, attach the pen to the edge of the nose, directing it to the inner corner of the eye.
- Mark the point at whic
h the line intersects with the superciliary arch. For the simplest determination of the peak point of the line, the pen should be positioned from the edge of the nose, leading it past the pupil up. To determine the boundary, the handle is placed in the direction from the wing of the nose to the outer corner. - Having identified the 3 main points, you can draw the perfect eyebrow line.
It is equally important to determine the optimal width. This should be done on the basis of individual characteristics, without trying to exactly repeat fashion trends. The simplest calculation of the optimal width is 1/2 the size of the iris. For women who have small eyes, the proportion should be reduced – 1/3 of the size of the iris.
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Eyebrow tinting
The architecture of eyebrows (step-by-step training is accompanied by a photo) is a complex process, one of the stages of which is coloring. The simplest and most cost-effective way applicable at home is to dye with eyebrow. The persistence of the effect is from 7-10 days.
The requirements for the selection of the coloring composition are as follows:
- hypoallergenicity and safe components in the composition;
- persistent effect;
- proven quality.
The palette of shades of paint is rich – this is pure natural shades, and unusual halftones, which allows you to choose the color for any color type, hair color. In addition to professional paint, henna, or biotattoo, can be used to give color to eyebrows in architecture. The advantage of this type of staining is the durability of the result and safety, since henna is a natural product .
To give the desired shade, you can use makeup. The advantage of this technique is simplicity and the ability to get results in minutes. But this method has a significant drawback – the short duration of the effect. Of the permanent methods of staining, the technique of tattooing and microblending is used.
Eyebrow makeup
The final stage of architecture is makeup. It can be done with mascara for eyebrows, eye shadow, special powder and a classic pencil. The easiest and fastest way to give shape and color is a pencil, but you can combine techniques to give a natural effect. The principle of modeling is the same.
After building the perfect line, choosing the length, width and peak break point, you can proceed to makeup:
- Before dyeing the eyebrows in color, comb with a round brush, directing the hairs in one direction.
- Using a pencil, draw the lower and upper border of the eyebrow, defining the contours.
- With a pencil or brush (when using eyeshadow and powder), paint the inside of the eyebrow with stroking movements.
- Using a brush, blend the pigment to give the eyebrows a natural look.
- The final stage of makeup is fixed with transparent wax.
Henna bioatouage
The architecture of eyebrows with henna has a lot of advantages. Step-by-step training will help beginner brow-masters perform the procedure at home. The main advantage of henna is naturalness and hypoallergenicity. Biotatuage allows you to get the right color, the effect can last from 4 weeks or more.
Step-by-step instruction:
- Preliminary stage. Before staining, the area must be scrubbed and degreased with lotion to clean it of makeup residues and keratinized microparticles. In elephants, a special shampoo is used, which helps the hair scales to open and better absorb the pigment.
- Correction. If necessary, remove excess hair with tweezers or thread, cut at the base, giving the eyebrows the correct shape for this type of face.
- Color selection. Classical henna is a plant powder with a pleasant herbal odor. When stained gives a red tint. Modern painting compositions based on henna have a diverse tint palette. To achieve the desired color, henna is mixed in various proportions:
- with basma – chestnut tone;
- walnut – chocolate;
- cocoa – a shade of mahogany;
- coffee – golden chocolate.
- Preparation of the composition. If professional henna is used, then the solution is mixed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. To prepare a composition of dry powder, it is necessary to dilute it in warm water, adding a few drops of lemon juice. Mix the mass better with a plastic spoon.
- Staining. The henna modeling process consists of several stages:
- dilute henna with water to a state of liquid slurry;
- with a beveled tip, draw a contour, marking the lower and upper border with a line;
- tint the inside with the wide part of the brush or with a round brush;
- cover the eyebrows with polyethylene and withstand the mixture;
- after exposure, remove the composition with a napkin, remove the residues with a moist cotton pad.
Staining time depends on the desired color intensity. The longer you hold the composition, the brighter the shade. The exposure time for the first staining is at least 40-50 minutes. In the future, you can keep henna less.
Architecture paint
One of the ways of architecture and giving the lines the desired shade is coloring with professional compositions. The kit includes a pigment and a developing emulsion. For coloring eyebrows, it is not recommended to use a coloring composition for hair, since it is more aggressive, can cause allergies.
Before the procedure, it is necessary to conduct a test test for an allergic reaction, putting a little paint on the skin in the bend of the elbow.
If there is no negative reaction, you can start the staining process:
- Cleanse the skin and degrease the area with an alcohol-containing lotion.
- Wearing protective gloves on your hands,
part the composition. Mix pigment and emulsion in a plastic container. - Using a flat brush with a beveled end, apply the paint in one thin layer.
- On top, apply another more dense layer for full coverage. Excess composition can be removed with a cotton swab.
- After the required exposure time for the reaction, rinse thoroughly.
To keep the color as long as possible, avoid scrubbing in the staining area. It is recommended to lubricate the hairs with castor oil daily.
A thread
One of the techniques of architecture and the creation of an ideal form – using thread. The method is considered the safest and most painless, but for successful correction some skill is needed.
For work, a cotton thread with a length of 19’7 – 23’6 inch will be required. Silk thread is more durable, but thanks to the smooth structure glides along the hairs, interfering with their tight grip. For a successful maneuver, the length of the hairs must be sufficient for a firm grip in the loop.
Thread Correction Algorithm:
- Prepare the area, treat with alcohol-containing lotion or tonic.
- To anesthetize the area, you can steam the skin with a hot towel and then dry thoroughly.
- Fold a piece of thread in half, tied with a strong knot.
- Putting on index fingers and thumbs, stretch in a circle.
- Twist in the middle 8-10 times in the form of infinity, so that one loop is smaller than the other.
- Attach the thread tightly to the area with a twisted part under the hairs, and a loop above them.
- A small loop stretches sharply, the middle rises, capturing the hairs and removing along with the bulbs.
Similar manipulations process the entire zone. The main task is to grab the hairs as tightly as possible and pull out in the direction of growth.
Sugar paste
The architecture of the eyebrows (step-by-step training for familiarization below) can be performed by the method of shugaring – a soft and hypoallergenic procedure. First you need to make caramel paste in the following proportion: 2 parts sugar, 1/2 lemon juice and 1/8 water. Preparing a viscous cosmetic caramel in a water bath. The composition can be stored in the refrigerator, closing hermetically with a lid.
Eyebrow Shugging Procedure:
- Prepare the skin, steam it with a compress with a hot towel, and then treat it with an antiseptic.
- Comb the hair, lay in the right direction, determine the removal zone.
- Apply oily cream to areas that do not need to be removed.
- Carefully knead the ball of paste in the hand, apply to the zones with a spatula against the growth line. Cover with a tape of fabric or paper from above, tear the strip with a sharp movement along the growth.
- After shugaring, treat the zones with chlorhexidine.
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Lamination
Lamination allows you to restore volume, carry out correction, modeling, coloring, has a strengthening and therapeutic effect. For the treatment of hairs, various compositions are used based on weighting components, keratin, caring plant extracts, with a coloring hypoallergenic pigment.
The procedure is carried out in several stages. First, the architecture is performed with the definition of the correction that is optimal for the type of face, the removal of excess hairs. Then, a special composition is applied to the eyebrows, which envelops each hair with a thin film, making them stronger, healthier and smoother. The effect after lamination can last 2-3 months.
The architecture of the eyebrows allows you to make the look more expressive, adjust the proportions, choose the shade and shape. Step-by-step training allows you to successfully carry out a salon procedure at home.
Eyebrow Architecture Video
Eyebrow Architecture Training Course:
Henna Biotattoo:
